Thursday, March 17, 2011

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ViniPortugal smagning på Hotel D'Angleterre

It is no coincidence that my love of wine is thrown in Italy. The diversity and quality is indisputable and obvious (the sky is the limit!) But consistently uncompromising, edged nature is perhaps as particularly resonate and appeal to my personality: I am probably something tannisk in the structure ..

But it is not wise to wear blinders and you cheat yourself too much if one single track. In the name of curiosity I went to Viniportugal annual tasting to correct and especially for - granted - to get better acquainted with Baga-grape from Bairrada region: 'Portugal Nebbiolo' that pioneer Luis Pato has called it because of its high acid and tannin levels.

Of Baga wines, however, only a single representative - Azul Portugal Bairrada, which was ok, but fairly thin and unimpressive - so it must be formed acquaintance a second time. Douro wines, however, was dominant and not unexpectedly well represented. Just the other day to Vini d'Italia was Atom Wine with the importer of the absolute top and Tom Pedersen's board was packed with superior quality in both red and white.
Star Couple Borges da Silva and produces their own wine (resp. Passadouro and Chocapalha) and has also combined a third house called Wine & Soul (Pinta). These are all top wines in this style and is impressive, ranging from entry level to the concentrated Riserva. Sandra da Silva was at the table.

Chocapalha from Estremedura region was represented by three red wines: an entry level tourigo nacional-blend, single cabin on the Riserva at the same grapes and in between a pure cabernet sauvignon. All stored in barriques, where the new reserved Riserva and partially cabernet'en. Riserva'en (18 months new barriques) is a hard sawn wine, dark and grim, yet with characteristic welcoming warmth from the ripe fruit. Fadpræget nose with dark, cooked berries and caramel with lots of asphalt, broth and kattetis. Heat fruit and low acidity in flavor with a kradsbørstig and green tinted finish with powerful kaffetanniner and alcohol. Little sister (16 months at 2 - and 3-year barriques) is also a serious wine, but with less concentration, structure and fadpræg and thus perhaps more useful - for 59 kr you get absurd much quality for the money.

red wine from Passadouro the Douro is paradoxically more fresh and cooler in their immediate fruit: The nose has almost Valpolicella juicy fruit with dark, sweet cherries and a carbon dioxide-like spritz of fruit juices. In the mouth they are quite different than the nose promises, dump trucks and more acidic than acidic, soft, dark fruit and fruit yoghurt.
differences between the four Passadouro wines lies most immediately in fruit concentration and tannin grip, Passa Tinto is soft, juicy and letdrikkelig, Passadouro is serious, with deeper fruit and solid kaffetanniner. Riserva Tinto is grand and impressive with large, mega-polished body and fierce, dry tannins that are warm alcohol - just across the border with sprites, but the fruit and structure keeps the wine at the right side.

Wine & Soul 's toprødvin Pinta has a beautiful and very distinctive vegetal nose with tons of arugula, dandelions, celery and tomato juice together with asphalt and rubber from the cask. Close fruit and fantastic concentration - the fruit is fully ripe, but has a characteristic acidic (ostet) tone. Again it (for a italofil) special combination of very low acidity and rich, delicious tannins. Alcohol, liqueur-like berry and strong asphalt in the aftertaste. Great Laden wine, 349 kr at Atom Wine.

Beautiful event in two halls at D'Angleterre - many good wines in the somewhat unique Portuguese style, which is arguably more reminiscent of southeastern France than Spain. Or just his own. The quality improvement is certainly obvious. And fun for me so much to feel away from home on top of last week's Vini d'Italia.

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